Today we made this caddy to hold the ever-growing supply of kid’s art materials.  Made from clothesline and recycled tin cans, it’s an easy and inexpensive solution.  You could use this caddy to hold various art supplies like we did here, or you could put it in the center of the table to keep utensils handy.  And I’m sure you could think of other uses.  We used four cans, but you could use more or less for your project.  You could also add a braided rope handle.  Here’s what you’ll need for the project:

• cans
• pliers
• clothesline (I bought mine at a fabric store, but I think you could pick this up at a hardware or even the grocery store.  The plain cotton kind is best if you can find it.  A package of clothesline should make it through several projects.  I’ve been using mine for little backpacks like this one.)
• glue gun and glue sticks
• scissors
• masking tape

1. Wash out four tin cans.  Flatten any protruding metal with the pliers.
2. Using the glue gun, put some glue toward the bottom of the cans to hold them together, two at a time.  Allow the glue to harden.
3. Wrap masking tape around one end of your clothesline.
4. Using the glue gun, glue the end of the clotheslin in place at the bottom of one of the cans (not the underside).
5. Wrap around the cans, pulling the clothesline as you go.  Add a bead of glue when you get back to your starting point and continue to wrap it around, pushing down to keep the clothesline together.  Continue until you get to the top.
6. Leave a tail 2″ long.  Wrap the tail end with masking tape, add some hot glue and tuck it in between the cans so that it sticks in place (see photo below).

If you make one of these, add your photo to the Make it Monday Flickr group here.

Here’s a recycled project great for a rainy day.  After making these stamps the other day, I wanted to try something that would allow the kids to be more involved in the process.  So, remembering this smart project from glittergoods, I gathered a couple of styrofoam trays.  I added some plastic bottle tops and there you go — custom stamps.

Supplies:

• styrofoam trays
• plastic bottle caps
• craft knife
• cutting mat
• stamp ink pads
• pen or pencil

First, I cut off the curved edges from the styrofoam trays with scissors.  Then I traced the outline of a plastic cap onto the foam and let the girls make their drawings within the circle.  I then cut these out with a craft knife because I found that scissors left a jagged edge, but it’s not a precision art here.  Oh, and if you’re going to try to write words, remember to make them a mirror image (I literally had to walk into the bathroom and hold the letters to the mirror because my brain does not work that way).

I talked with the girls about positive and negative space and encouraged them to draw their designs with as little detail as possible.  It probably would have been helpful to have the kids draw their designs on paper first and to show them a sample of a completed styrofoam stamp.  After they drew their designs, I went over them with the pen to make sure the grooves were deep enough to avoid the ink.

Once I cut out the shape, I glued the styrofoam circle to the cap with the hot glue gun.  I’m thinking that these won’t last forever because the styrofoam flattens out a bit, but they are a lot of fun.  My four-year-old wants to make more and more of these, so I guess we’ll have to go back to the farmer’s market and buy more muffins.

So I loved the plain journals, but thought that a more decorative journal might make a nice gift. I made one with fabric and one with paper.  The fabric covered version (pictured above) will be a gift for my mother-in-law with some photos of the children.  I used three sheets of card stock rather than paper, which will hold six photos.  I also lined the inside with green paper.  I first cut the cereal box down to size, then cut the fabric about 1/2 larger.  I sprayed the adhesive on the cardboard and pressed down the fabric.  Then I trimmed the excess with a rotary cutter and made the rounded corners with scissors.  I added some Fray Check to the edges to keep it from unraveling, which seems to be working.  I have never used this before, and it’s likely toxic.  My older daughter said to the younger one “Look, ear drops for you.”  Glad I was in the room.

The second journal is covered with paper from a Marimekko catalog and I affixed it with spray adhesive also.  The color on the glossy paper stretched some when it was creased, so I added a grosgrain ribbon binding, which I wrapped around the inside.  I sewed down each side, then added the paper and sewed in the center.  It was a little tricky to get it straight, but I taped it in place.  The inside is lined with orange paper.

And, to solve the issue of having the papers not aligned when you fold the book:  Stagger the papers, as shown below.  Then cut the other end straight across with a paper cutter.  Then arrange arrange them so that they are evenly fanned out on either side, with the slightly shorter papers on the inside on the book and the longer ones by the cover.  Does that make sense?  You still need to cut all your papers a bit shorter than the cover because cardboard is thicker than paper, so takes up more space in the bend.

There are a million felted sweater projects out there, but I think it’s a great idea to save money and recycle wool sweaters.  I found some more sweaters on a thrifting excursion the other day, so I made these plump holiday trees.  They are about 7″ tall and each has 32 felted sweater circles.

Supplies:

• felted wool sweaters (washed and dried 100% wool sweaters)
• scissors
• pins
• wire
• wire cutters
• bead or star for the tree top

Instructions (for one tree):

Step 1: Print out the templates below and cut out paper circles.

thrifted-trees-page-1

thrifted-trees-page-2

thrifted-trees-page3

Step 2: Pin paper circles to the sweaters and cut two of each size.  It helps to cut out a square from the sweater and work with that, rather than trying to cut from the whole sweater.

Step 3: Bend the wire at the bottom and begin slipping sweater circles onto the wire, beginning with the largest first.  It helps to find the center by folding the circle in half, then half again.

Step 4:  Wrap a bead or star at the top and bend the wire around.  Snip.

If you make one of these, I’d love to see a photo in the Make it Monday Flickr group.  Thanks!

Now who doesn’t want to bowl over those cheery little elves?  Here’s a pretty simple project inspired by the French handmade bowling pins that we bought from Reform School last year.  You could vary this project to create gnomes, fairies, farm animals, monsters, your family…whatever!

Supplies:

• 36″ dowel rod, 1″ wide (for 6 bowling pins)
• saw and miter box

Yes, this project requires a saw and miter box.  If you don’t have these, I’m sure you can find a friend who does and possibly even someone to cut the dowel rod for you.  But it’s easy, I swear.

• acrylic paints, red and black
• paint brushes, medium and tiny
• painter’s tape, 1/2″ wide (may need to be cut from a larger width)
• spray polyurethane (optional)
• felt bits cut according to hat-template.
• white yarn scraps
• green and red thread
• pipe cleaners, 2
• glue gun and glue sticks
• wooden ball (maybe 2)

Step 1: With a hand saw and miter box, cut wooden dowel rods in 6″ lengths.

Step 2: Sand bottoms until they stand flat.

Step 3: Wrap painter’s tape in 1/2″ increments around each pin and paint red stripes.  Remove tape when the paint it just barely dry by pulling straight up.

Step 4: Paint faces.

Step 5: (optional) Spray dowels with polyurethane.

Step 6: Sew decorative stitching onto edge of felt pieces (ric-rac would be nice).

Step 7: Make little pompom by wrapping yard in loops and tying it around itself.  Then trim ends and fray them a bit.

Step 8: Lay pompom on right side of felt, fold right sides together and pin in place.  Sew along seam with 1/4″ seam allowance.  Reinforce the end with yarn.  Turn right side out, using closed tip of scissors to gently push out the tip.

Step 9: Insert a small piece of pipe cleaner into the top of the hat so it will bend.  Adjust all of your hats to the desired position.

Step 10: Put a bead of glue on the top edge of the dowel rod and carefully place the hat.

Now give them to some deserving kid.  These are a present for a super sweet three-year-old boy.  If you make your own version, I’d love to see them!  Please add your photos to the Make it Monday photo pool.

Our friend Sarah gave me a couple of spools of this black grosgrain ribbon, presenting me with a challenge.  So here is this quick and easy Halloween wreath.  Since it takes a lot of ribbon, try buying in bulk online rather than at the craft stores.  I really like this site for ribbons and trims.

Supplies:

• 12″ foam wreath form
• 24 yards 1 1/4″ black grosgrain ribbon (or less if using a wider ribbon)
• Scissors
• Measuring tape

Steps:

1. Cut 45-50 16″ pieces of ribbon.
2. Tie one strand of ribbon in a knot around the wreath.  I used a “messy knot” — right over left, then right over left again, pulling in the opposite direction.  It doesn’t really matter how you do it as long as you are consistent all the way around.  Repeat with the knots, pushing them close together, until you fill the wreath.
3. Cut one long piece of ribbon (48″) and tie one end to form a knot.  Leave a long loop for hanging and tie another knot onto the wreath.
4. Trim any frayed or long ends.

Done!  If you make one of these, I’d love to see a photo in the Make it Monday Flickr pool here.  There are lots of great new photos over there, so take a look.

Here are some basic instructions to create an appliqué design with your embroidery machine.  Here it is in a downloadable .pdf file if you’d like to print out the directions: machine-applique.

Step 1:
If your final product will be laundered, be sure to wash and dry both fabrics before you begin.

Step 2:
Mark center of item to be sewn and place it on the embroidery frame.  I use filmoplast (sticky paper) to
stabilize the fabric.

Step 3:
Cut out your appliqué fabric to be about 2 inches larger on all sides than the appliqué design.  So if your design is 3”x3”, then cut your fabric to be at least 5”x5”.

Step 4:
Center the appliqué fabric on top of the item to be sewn.  I usually just place it and hold it by hand while the machine sews, but you could pin on the outside edge of your fabric.

Step 5:
Sew the tacking stitch.  In my designs, this will be the first stitch you sew and will be followed by a scissors mark, indicating when it is time to cut.

Step 6:
Remove the embroidery frame from the machine.  Using rounded tip appliqué scissors, cut all around the design, gently tugging at the fabric to cut as close as possible to the stitch line.

Step 7:
Replace the embroidery frame and continue sewing the satin stitch around the outline of the design.

Step 8:
Press from the back of the fabric using light steam.  All done!

Happy first day of Fall!  Here’s a little autumn no-sew appliqué project.  I put these appliqués on tees, but I think they would be cute on a kitchen towel, tote bag, at the hem of a skirt, or wherever you choose.  I think it’s best to have some contrast with your fabric — dark appliqué on light fabric, light appliqué on dark fabric.  As you can see, the orange fabric above doesn’t really show up all that well because of the white in the fabric design.  It would also be cute to sew some buttons for eyes, maybe even embroider a little face.

I have never used this Wonder Under product for appliqué because I didn’t trust that it would stay on through wear and tear without sewn reinforcement.  But I’ve washed and dried these tees and they just frayed a teeny bit around the edges, so I am satisfied. If you’re as confused by the vast array of interfacing at the fabric store as I am, just ask for “Wonder Under” and check to make sure that’s what you’ve got.  It comes on a bolt or in small packages.  The Wonder Under instructions say this works on wood too.  I’m skeptical — anyone tried that?

Supplies:

• Double-sided fusible webbing (Wonder Under or other brand)
• Fabric scraps (about 6″x6″ for each squirrel)
• Tee
• Fabric marker
• Iron
• Small, sharp scissors
• Damp cloth

Print out the template you wish to use and cut out the image(s).  The single squirrel is about 5 1/2″ wide and the squirrels in the other design are each 4 1/2″ wide:

squirrel-single

squirrels-sharing

1. Cut a piece of fabric just larger than the appliqué design.  Iron rough side of fusible webbing to wrong side of fabric, according to fusible webbing instructions.  Be sure not to let the webbing overlap while you are ironing or you will get goop on your iron and/or your ironing board.
2. Place template on the back of your fabric and trace image with a fabric marker.
3. Cut away excess fabric and then cut carefully around your image with small, sharp scissors.
4. Carefully peel away backing and place design on tee.
5. Iron in place according to package directions with damp cloth on top.

All done!  If you make this project, please show us by posting your photos in the Make it Monday Flickr pool.

it’s a t-shirt dress!

I saw an adult a-line version of this in a catalog and decided to make some for the kids.  Are they back in style?  This was pretty easy and inexpensive.  You could add a matching appliqué to the top.  And I think it would be extra cute in plaid.  This will work for adults or kids.

Here are the basic instructions:

Supplies:

• tee
• 1/2 yard fabric (for kids)
• thread
• scissors
• measuring tape

Step #1: Wash and dry tee and fabric.

Step #2: Try the tee on to see where you want it to hit.  Mark that spot and cut neatly across the bottom.

Step #3: Measure the width of the hem of your t-shirt.  Double that and cut your fabric to that width in two pieces.  You can decide the length according to your needs.  (I used about 10″ for my three year-old and 12″ for my five year-old).

Step #4: Turn under bottom of one piece of fabric 1/2″ and press.  Fold 1/2″ again and sew hem.  Repeat for the other piece of fabric.

Step #5: Right sides together, pin the two pieces of fabric together and sew one of the side seams (1/2″ seam allowance).

Step #6: Sew a basting stitch along the top for gathering, leaving bobbin thread long.

Step #7: Right sides together, sew the other side seam, starting at the bottom and leaving about 1/2″ at the top so that you can still adjust the gathers.

Step #8: Turn tee inside out and insert skirt section into the inside of the skirt upside down, with right side of skirt facing right side of tee (see photo below).

Step #9: Pin seams of skirt to seams of tee.  Pins should be on the inside of the skirt.  Then pin around, adjusting the gathers evenly as you pin.

Step #10: Sew in place along the basting stitch.

Step #11: Sew overcasting stitch along all seams.

If you make this project, be sure to post a photo to the Flickr Make it Monday page.

I’ve had these shadow box shelves sitting around the house for a while and had some printable canvas, so decided to add photos to them. These photo shelves could hang on the wall, be stacked on a table or used as a key shelf by a door. They would be nice painted black with sepia-toned photos. It occurred to me as I was taking pictures that you could make an adjustable doll house with these wooden boxes by backing each one with fabric or patterned paper. They’re just the right size for this.

Supplies:

• Wooden shadow boxes (paint them if you want)
• Printable canvas (from the office supply store)
• Computer and printer
• Scissors
• Staple gun

Measure the outside of the wooden frame. Using Photoshop or other photo program, adjust your photos to size and print on canvas cloth. Be sure to cut out space for hangers on frames. Staple to frame with staple gun. That’s it!

When I made the little egg man for the rocket ship I thought that wooden eggs would also make cute matryoshka style dolls. So here they are. Painted wooden eggs with fabric bottoms and little scarves. Here are some quick and basic directions. As you can see, I am not an artist so I think anyone with a paint brush can do this. Imperfections are the mark of handcrafted love! You could use pastel colors and they would make lovely little Easter gifts. These are probably the kind of dolls that would be happiest living on a shelf, but I’ll let you know how ours hold up to wear and tear.

Supplies:

• 3 wooden eggs of varying sizes (available at craft stores)
• painter’s tape
• exact-o knife
• acrylic paint
• small paint brushes
• paint pen (s)
• spray polyurethane (I used clear satin for a little shine)
• fabric scraps
• scissors
• spray adhesive (multi-purpose craft adhesive)

Note: Before you begin, you might want to lightly sand the eggs. I did not sand mine and wish I had. The bumpy surface makes painting a little more difficult and the porous areas allow paint to seep under the painter’s tape when you are painting the upper portion.

Step 1: Cut a circle from the painter’s tape. I rolled out some tape onto my cutting mat, traced a circle and used an exact-o knife to cut it out. I then applied it to the egg where I wanted the face. Make sure that the tape is pressed down firmly all around the edges. Measure where you want the paint to stop and mark that with a pencil. Paint this area and allow to dry for about five minutes. Then remove the painter’s tape circle and touch up any areas where paint may have bled through.

Step 2: Paint the face. I used a small brush and undiluted acrylic paints.

Step 3: Use paint pens and/or paint to embellish the top portion. Spray with a coat of polyurethane and allow to dry.

Step 4: Wrap fabric around the eggs to measure how much you will need for each bottom portion. Mark and cut. Then cut slits about 1″ long at 1″ intervals in the bottom of the fabric. Spray back of fabric with spray adhesive and apply to the egg carefully and quickly. On the bottom press down every other tab, then come back around and press down the rest. This will allow for a pleated look at the base (see image below). You may have to spray a bit more adhesive as you are working.

Step 5: Make scarves. Again wrap fabric around the egg and add a couple of inches extra. Cut a long, narrow triangle of fabric. You could finish the top, but I just folded mine under and used the selvedge ends. I used pinking shears for the edges.

Thanks for looking! Remember, all patterns and original designs on the long thread are for non-commercial use only. Make things, give them as gifts, enjoy them, but please do not sell them. If you do make these dolls, please add your photos to the Make it Monday photo pool at Flickr here.  I would love to see your creations!  Thanks.

We have eliminated paper napkins around our house, so thought I’d share this project for kids’ place mats and napkins. Obviously you could use this pattern for adult-sized napkins and place mats by increasing the dimensions (I’ve made some suggestions below). This is a super-easy project and a great one for beginners. I also think that some plain fabric with appliqué monsters or flowers would be really cute. We just happened to have this Wizard of Oz canvas from Reprodepot and my kids love it. I backed the mats with a ticking stripe.

Supplies for 4 Place Mats and Napkins:

• 1 yard main fabric (heavy weight cotton or canvas)
• 1 yard contrasting fabric (heavy weight cotton or canvas)
• 1/2 yard napkin fabric (cotton twill or similar)
• scissors
• matching thread
• measuring tape

A note about fabrics: Working with a striped fabric will help you cut straight lines. If you choose to use a lighter weight cotton or even linen for the place mats, you could add a layer of interfacing. And for the napkins, I wanted to use a fabric that was the same on both sides so that a bad side wouldn’t show as you are using the napkin (this is just my personal preference).  I’d recommend washing and drying your fabrics before you begin.

Place Mats

Step 1:

Cut your fabrics to the following specifications:

Napkins 10″x 10″ (cut 4). Try 18″ x 18″ for adult-sized napkins.
Place mats 14″ x 12″ (cut 4 of each, main and contrasting fabrics) . Try 20″ x 14″ for adult-sized placemats.

A clear square ruler like one of these will help you get straight lines and achieve 90 degree corners easily. A rotary cutter and mat are also helpful for this project, but not necessary.

Step 2:

Pin place mat fabrics right sides together and sew a straight stitch about 1/4″ around the edges (pictured below), leaving about 4 inches open. Then turn place mats right side out. Push out corners with the blunt end of your scissors or the end of a pen. Press place mats flat, turning in the open edge.

Step 3:

Sew around edges 1/4″ from edge. Then sew another straight stitch 1/2″ from edge. This will leave you with a nice double-stitched edging. Alternately, you could sew a nice decorative stitch or ric-rac trim around the edges. I didn’t think this fabric needed any embellishment.

Napkins

Step 1:

Fold and press napkin edges 1/4″ towards wrong side of fabric. Then bring napkins to the sewing machine. Fold again about 1/2″ and place under the presser foot. Hold the bottom of the fold as you sew (see picture below). Then sew the opposite side.

Step 2:

There are two ways that you could do the corners of the napkins. You may fold corners over at a 90 degree angle like this:

Or tuck under for an angle like this (works best with thin fabrics):

Either way you do it — fold a bottom corner, pin it in place, then make top corner and sew it, then continue down the seam. Repeat for the other side.

Another project finished! Please let me know if you have any comments or questions.